I like all the nuance you’ve given here, Wondering. Yes, the new generation, influenced by social media and the need to look camera-ready at all times, has added glam squads to their service providers list. We see celebrities at the awards shows and festivals all “getting ready” in their hotels beforehand with the maestro of the curling tongs and wizards of makeup brushes. Just look at the lineup of women over 50 who dazzled on the red carpet at Cannes earlier this month: We saw Michelle Yeoh (61); and Meryl Streep (74) who was on hand to receive an honorary Palme d’Or; Salma Hayek (57); Julianne Moore (63); Andie McDowell (66) and Cate Blanchett (55), who glowed in a variety of perfect, gold-themed outfits. Their visages were flawless, and through MUA sleight of hand, the makeup was perfectly suited to their age, no glitter or theatrics, just dewy, fresh and, what’s more, not sliding off their faces.  

Getting your makeup done professionally for special occasions is one of the top tips of fashion insiders, along with getting garments tailored and employing a stylist to edit your closet. I asked makeup pro Victoria Radford, who founded Radford Studio which has a full-service aesthetics, makeup and hair salon in Toronto’s Yorkville Village, to explain why it makes such a difference. “Professional makeup artists have an expert understanding of how to accentuate the unique features of different face shapes, skin tones, and eye colours,” she says. Ah, yes, customization. “They know exactly how to highlight your best features and use techniques that flatter you specifically.” Makeup artists are experts in product layering, she says, and they always start with skincare for a soft, hydrated base. This is what keeps your makeup looking natural and long-lasting. 

Then I spoke with Tana D’Amico, who was named “Industry’s Best in Editorial Beauty” by Estée Lauder Group. I’ve worked with D’Amico on set, and she has done my hair and makeup for editorial shoots. She did this once at a particularly vulnerable moment in my life, when my confidence in my looks was low. Because we all mourn our 35-year-old faces! But what I took away from sitting in her chair was like an armour: The makeup was very natural but it transformed my face, which transformed my confidence in front of the camera.

“Your skin is different as you age,” D’Amico says. “It is not the same surface for makeup. It travels downward, it has damage. Therefore, you need to contour it differently.” Ah, contour. It has such a bad rap thanks to the Kardashians. But according to D’Amico, it is the key to polishing up your look north of 50. Again, it comes down to customization. “Contouring is super important, and not that hard to learn,” she says. That’s another thing about hiring a makeup artist: being privy to their tips and tricks.

As to contouring secrets, according to D’Amico: “A makeup artist can see where your jawline is, and where best to place the product on you.” Depending on your skin tone, she will use bronzers or darker powder to strengthen a sagging jawline or give the illusion of volume in cheeks. “Contouring morphs as you get older. Over 50, you have to go in between the cheekbone and the hollow of your cheek. A pro will prescribe it for you in real time.” 

She is a fan of nudes and neutral lipsticks, because “you can’t lose,” she says, though it takes a makeup artist’s eye to choose the right nude for each skin tone, and they often mix two shades together. Having ordered approximately a thousand nude lipsticks in my life, I can attest to the value of the MUA eye. (PS: I recently was shown Charlotte Tilbury’s newish shade Red Carpet Pink, a neutral with a wee bit of rose – and I’m so into it.) D’Amico is a fan of M.A.C’s Honey Love for a wide range of skin tones.

But sometimes a bright pop of red is just the ticket for your special occasion makeup. D’Amico says for these big pigment colours she favours Dior or YSL shades. With reds you get what you pay for, as it takes complex pigment combinations to create a truly rich colour.

Radford adds another seasonal colourway option. “I love a pink coral lip for summer,” she says. But going light is the key here. “Instead of using lipstick, I often opt for a multi-use balm that can be reapplied all day without a mirror.” This last is important when you are at an event, Clarins Lip Oil Balm is a favourite. Another pro tip: she likes to use the same shade on lips and cheeks, especially in the summer, for a natural, sun-kissed look. She cites NudeStix Gel Color Lip + Cheek Balm in shade Haven as her favourite for summer.

For special occasion eyes Radford loves the hypershine look.“Dewy, wet, glossy eyelids and lit-from-within glowing skin is perfect for hot summer days.” For older lids the trick is to apply the shadow only on the visible part of the upper lid, above the lashes. That way it doesn’t sink into any crepey or loose skin between the crease and the browline. To create this look, Radford uses the YSL Couture Mini Clutch Eyeshadow Palette in Babylone Roses (it sits on the eyelids beautifully and lasts all day) and the Merit Day Glow Dewy Highlighting Balm on the cheek and brow bones, for a “I just got out of the ocean” look.

Now to eyebrows, the obsession of every millennial and gen-Zer. D’Amico says they should be our obsession too. “Eyebrows are super important,” for framing the face properly. “I cannot stress it enough,” she says. But don’t go for the overdone stencilled or microbladed look the kids wear. “Definitely don’t go darker; that is the first giveaway of bad eyebrows,” she says. “You generally need two colours, so start with lighter and create the shape, then go into more sparse areas and make brush strokes.” She recently added the NYX  Brow Tint Pen to her kit, and also recommends a custom mix of M.A.C shadows in taupey browns, applied in upward strokes with a brow brush for realistic shading.

Powder is a contentious subject for older skin as it tends to sit in those little (and big) lines. Both our pros say that layering (on top of well-prepped skin) is the way you get makeup to stay put all day and to use powder sparingly: on the hollows of cheeks just below the cheekbone, below the lower lip and in the T-zone. 

Lastly, the mascara question. This is my personal bugbear, as every time I wear it now I get raccoon eyes. D’Amico explains that is because “our lashes now are literally lower on our face.” Ouch, but it makes sense. Why wouldn’t they droop too? She uses L’Oréal Voluminous mascara, her tip is to use a coat of waterproof on top, so you get some protection but don’t have a huge removal mess later. 

Still wondering if this is worth the money, Wondering? Hiring a MUA will cost you around $250 for makeup alone and $150 per hour with a two-hour minimum if it’s makeup and hair. That is the price most editorial pros working with or without agencies will charge. How to find these? D’Amico says it is basically word of mouth: Ask someone, whose makeup you admire, who does their face. It’s a significant investment, but so is hair, and so is your dress and shoes. You also learn something new every time you do it, to carry over into your own cosmetics kit and daily routine. So go ahead and listen to your daughters!