To dig further into how Camilla (along with her stylist, Jacqui Meakin), is upping the fabulous factor — and to garner tips as to how the rest of us can pull off graceful party looks at any age — we spoke with Canada’s special occasion fashion magician, Brian Bailey. He is the go-to designer for elegant custom gowns for mothers-of-the-bride or groom in this country. Bailey has been in the business since graduating from Ryerson in 1983; he launched his own label in 1992.

“It all comes down to fit,” says Bailey. “Especially the bustline. That can be where things get mumsy. You need a good bra, go get one.” (He cheekily suggests that new foundation garments for Camilla would make a big difference.) For this Bailey suggests seeing a proper bra fitter, and putting some money into it. A great Toronto resource is Melmira Bra & Swimsuits, the kind of old-school place at which you need to make an appointment for a fitting. In Vancouver, try Diva Lingerie; in Calgary, go to Knickers ‘N Lace as these also carry a wide variety of sizes and specialty bras such as minimizers, which can be quite sexy, but they are pricey. Good, dependable brands include Chantelle, Empreinte and Prima Donna.

Bailey finds the most important part of his work as a stylist is actually psychological. He helps his clients change their (often negative) attitudes towards their bodies by guiding them to choose clothes that maximize the positive. “Accepting changes in your body, not being self-critical, that’s the thing.” 

Fabric is incredibly important, look for something with body. “I love a Japanese crepe synthetic,” he says, which is going to perform for special occasions because it stays smooth and drapes beautifully, skimming the body instead of clinging. Doesn’t that already sound appealing? “If you look rumpled, you feel rumpled. You want armour, something that doesn’t bunch or pull.”

Keep the design simple, he says, and lean into colour. “A-line dresses [cut close on the waist] are the most flattering, as is a fuller skirt.” He says Camilla’s stylist is clearly focusing on giving her a waist these days, which makes for a cleaner, easier silhouette. Princess-line dresses, with darts and seams to delineate the waist, have the same slenderizing effect. And if, like Camilla, you have a larger bust, show it! “A V-neck should never be a straight V. Choose a sweetheart neckline instead with a deeper V.”

Bailey isn’t as concerned about arms as many of his customers are. “I don’t love sleeves on evening wear. Older skin is older skin. Just use a little self-tanner and you will feel great. If you do insist on sleeves, make them three-quarter, perfectly tailored, cut close to your arm.” If you do insist on short sleeves (hey, the customer is always right!), he warns, they should not go straight across. “Make sure it goes up into a little scallop in the middle,” he says, meaning along the shoulder seam, to give the illusion of lightness and keep the line from cutting you at an unattractive place on the upper arm.

Camilla is a fan of sensible footwear for long days on the rope line (she reportedly has many dozens of pairs of Sole Bliss pumps in two-inch heels). She makes up for the less exciting shoes with designer handbags (she loves a Dior). Bailey is not against flats, as there are many great options now, but he does suggest a strappy sandal of any height works best with evening wear: “As little shoe as possible,” is his motto.

There is always a formula to effective dressing schemes, and Camilla has a good plan. She hews to signature colours, of creams and blues. She wears bracelet sleeves and then fills the open arm with bracelets, her favourite ornament. Camilla has always been an excellent hat-wearer and invests in sophisticated, never silly or novelty, headgear. But the real secret to her silhouette? Everything fits perfectly, and that is what raises the bar.

We can all steal that tip, says Bailey. “Find someone good to tailor the fit. Yes, you want to be comfortable. But too loose is old lady. Don’t go there.”

Always asking questions,

—Leanne Delap